יום כיפור בבאר שבע

In the States, Yom Kippur was one of my favorite of the High Holy Days. I'm sure that means I'm warped and a glutton for punishment, but it's absolutely true. I love the overall theme of cleansing and renewal inherent in the Day of Atonement. I also love the solidarity felt while fasting with your fellow congregants - and Jews around the world. Well, those who fast anyway.

In some ways, Yom Kippur didn't feel like as much of a big deal in Israel. Not that no one observed, but more because so many observed and it was just a matter of course. The country essentially shuts down - so much so, you could take a leisurely stroll along the empty highway if you so chose. The religious fast, wear white, and attend prayer services (called tfillah or תפילה) at their local beit knesset. Overall, however, there's just much less of a to-do in Israel about fasting and prayer than there is in the States. It's a strange paradox, but one I've also felt about Shabbat as well. It is, however, a much more somber event in prayer services. Also, it's possible that because I don't speak much Hebrew I missed out on much of the self-reflection I'm used to during this time of year.

My friends and I found a beit knesset in my neighborhood for worship. It was an Ashkenazic congregation, which means I was thankfully more familiar with the trope used. I was also more comfortable with their style of worship, or rather, interpretation of what "appropriate" dati worship should look like: there was still a mechitza separating the men from the women, yet the women prayed more audibly and were overall more actively involved in the prayers. The men still led, but I felt more at home praying and singing with more volume. Breaking the fast, however, is a very big deal - though food always is around here. I made my now popular stove-top macaroni and cheese recipe - I add garlic and Moroccan paprika to the dish, which basically makes the stuff like crack. I never have leftovers. And man, were we ever thankful to gorge on comfort food after a LONG day of fasting!

I felt very thankful to experience this Day of Atonement in Israel. I was doubly thankful for the ease of finding places of worship within easy walking distance from my apartment. Especially since focusing on prayer does a wonderful job of taking your mind off of hunger and thirst. The naps aren't so bad either. My hope is that next time, I'll be worshipping as part of a congregation here instead of as a visitor. I'd also like to actually understand what everyone's saying and see just how much self-reflection is focused on.